The Vein and the Valley: The Enduring Life of Arizona's Cleopatra Hill
Alexander Cowan | Arizona, United States
Photographer: Alexander Cowan
Exhibit Title: The Vein and the Valley: The Enduring Life of Arizona's Cleopatra Hill
Location: Arizona, United States
The Vein and the Valley is an immersive photographic study of perseverance at the Gold King Mine Ghost Town, formerly the Haynes mining camp, on Cleopatra Hill, Jerome, Arizona. Captured in November 2020, this series documents a civilization carved from a high-desert mountain, balancing the landscape's scale with intimate relics of human endeavor.
The narrative is rooted in the region’s massive historical impact. Cleopatra Hill was home to the United Verde Mine, once the world’s most profitable copper operation—a vital, isolated chapter in the American industrial frontier. The Haynes camp began when prospectors, ironically digging for copper, struck rich veins of gold instead.
The isolated setting features sweeping views across the Verde Valley to the distant Mogollon Rim. These landscapes, including the "scar" of the old UV&P Broadbed road and the pervasive dust, underscore the immense challenges faced by 20th-century miners.
The series highlights enduring craftsmanship and self-sufficiency on the Arizona frontier, from the detail of a humble room and leather harnesses against hand-hewn logs to a tribute to Steve, the Master Sawmill Man.
The realization of The Vein and the Valley—and the larger body of work captured during this photographic expedition—was made possible only through crucial logistical support and regional expertise, as well as the generosity of the residents who shared their personal history and time. The camaraderie and shared self-sufficiency found among residents in this remote area—a spirit that acknowledges the harsh realities of the frontier but meets every challenge with immediate, supportive action—proved essential to the trip's success.
I extend my deepest gratitude to:
Steve, "the Master Sawmill Man": For his gracious consent to be photographed at the historic 1914 Gold King Mine Sawmill. His portrait—taken two years before his well-deserved retirement in 2022—captures the quiet, enduring spirit of the rugged Arizona frontier, honoring the decades of specialized skill and dedicated service he provided to the Verde Valley community.
Kimberly Davis (Photographer of "Access is Everything"): For her indispensable role as a trusted guide. Her extensive, intimate knowledge of the Sedona and greater Verde Valley region was essential not only for accessing the remote historical features of Cleopatra Hill for this specific project but also for successfully navigating and documenting the broader area.
Derek Wlodarski: For the generous loan of his personal ATV (affectionately nicknamed "the mule"). This vehicle was the single most critical tool for navigating the difficult, rugged mining and prospecting roads throughout the entire Sedona region, providing the essential remote access required to capture a significant portion of the historical landscapes documented during this trip. I am particularly grateful for his grace and quick action in fixing the ATV with no complaints after a breakdown, perfectly embodying the resilient spirit of the local community.
My project, The Vein and the Valley, was a profoundly personal adventure, a journey to a world suspended in time atop Cleopatra Hill. While the lens captured the visual narrative, it could only hint at the full sensory experience.
I was driven by the desire to convey the feeling of that place: the sound of wind across the vast canyon, the creak of worn wood, and the distinct smell of rust, high-desert juniper, and the pervasive dust that defines the air of the Jerome-Perkinsville Road. The adventure itself, relying on a borrowed ATV, the "mule," to navigate the challenging, rocky tracks, was integral to my documentation process.
This series is a testament to the specialized world I encountered—the quiet dignity of the cabin interiors, the history embodied by the ore, and the enduring spirit of individuals like Steve, the Master Sawmill Man. In documenting this isolated existence, I found a deep appreciation for the ingenuity and tenacity required to make a life where the boundaries between past and present are blurred, and where self-reliance is not a choice, but a daily necessity. This was more than a shoot; it was an unforgettable immersion into the heart of the Arizona frontier.
Alexander Cowan
m. +1 267 432 4350
e. ac@alexandercowanphotography.com
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